#C 41 black and white film how to
#C 41 black and white film manual

You’re now ready to take the film off the reel, squeegee (I use the two-finger method…some people don’t squeegee at all), and then hang your film to dry for a few hours or overnight. Stabilizer: (30 seconds) Pour in stabilizer, agitate for 15 seconds, and let sit for 15 seconds.Wash: (3 min) Rinse film, while still in the developing tank, under running water (between 95-105º).(Note: there is NO rinse cycle between developer and blix!) Funnel the blix back into its bottle. Blix: (6.5 minutes) Pour in blix and use same agitation scheme as above.Funnel the developer back into its bottle. Place cap on the developing tank and invert tank four times every 30 seconds. Developer: (3.5 minutes) Pour in developer and agitate with the agitation stick for 10 seconds.Pre-Soak: (1 min) Fill your developing tank up with 102º water and let sit for one minute, pour out.Once your chemicals are up to 102º, you’re ready to start! Then, I cap it, shake it up, and set it aside. I then funnel in the packets marked Blix A and Blix B, cap it, shake it up, uncap it, and add the remaining 200ml water. Some purists refuse to combine these steps, but it’s relatively difficult to find kits that will ship in the mail with the bleach and fixer separate.įor this step, I get my water up to 110º and pour 800ml of it into the bottle.

#C 41 black and white film manual

For this one I pour all 1000ml of water into a bottle, then funnel in the stabilizer, cap it, shake it up, and set it aside.īlix: It’s most common to find chemical kits (for manual use) where the bleach and fixer are joined in a single step (hence the name “blix”). Stabilizer: This is the easy one since it can be at room temperature. The developer is the most critical, temperature-wise, so I do that last so when all the chemicals are mixed I can start developing my rolls without fear that the temperature has dropped too much. I also mix my chemicals completely backwards I start with the stabilizer, then do the blix, and finally developer.

#C 41 black and white film how to

The instructions linked don’t have the correct times for manual developing, but gives you an idea how to edit the settings.īefore mixing my chemicals, I mark all my bottles and caps with a D, B, or S (developer, blix, stabilizer) so that the caps will never cross-contaminate the bottles. This app doesn’t have a C-41 setting, but I found a way to hack one.

Timer – I use the Massive Dev Chart app for this, which is also what I use for black and white film.

They also sell a 2L kit! – (Film Photography Project: FPP C-41 Development Kit) There are lots of kits out there, but I have used the one from Film Photography Project.

C-41 kit – The kit will contain developer, blix (a combination of bleach and fixer), and stabilizer.

– (Amazon: 1000ml Darkroom Chemical Storage Bottles) I have the kit that makes 1L chemicals, so I bought the 1000ml bottle.

3 opaque bottles – The size will depend on what kit you buy.

Basin for heating up bottles – (Amazon: Sterilite 12qt Dishpan).

– (Amazon: Home Brew Stuff 12″ Dial Thermometer) I also labeled which thermometer is for which chemical so I don’t cross-contaminate.

Thermometer – I bought a two-pack, but, lately, I have only been checking the temp of the developer since the blix has more latitude.

Plastic beaker for measuring water when the chemicals are mixed – This is the same one I use for developing black and white.

Funnels – I use a separate funnel for the chemicals so I don’t cross-contaminate.

– (Amazon: Paterson Photographic Universal Tank)

Paterson Tank and Reels – Same one I use to develop black and white film.

Links are included to the products I use: